Irina Hagel

Master Thesis/Collection “Private Space”. G.P.A. 1,0.

PhD Thesis “A Conceptual Tendency in Fashion design in the 20th and at the turn of 21st centuries”. November 2012 Maison Martin Margiela presented a collection developed for H&M. The re-edition of iconic garments and accessories was offered to the broad public. This collaboration project describes and verifies the main statements of my thesis. Fashion design after 1980’s becomes more conceptual. The artists’ interpretation of social, political, cultural aspects forms the basis of the new CONCEPTUAL Fashion design. The basic questions were to define the term ‘conceptual fashion’ and to identify its importance and influence on the modern fashion industry. The key object of the research was to analyse the avant-garde and conceptual collections of the 20th century and those at the turn of the 21st century from such desginers as Paco Rabanne, Andre Courreges, Pierre Cardin, Rudi Gernreich, Hussein Chalayan, Issey Miyake, Rei Kawakubo, Yohji Yamamoto, Junya Watanabe, Kei Kagami, Martin Margiela, Walter Van Beirendonck, A.F. Vandevorst, Henrik Vibskov, Barbara i Gongini, Lucy Orta and others. In this thesis I argued that major trends of conceptual fashion are a new artist's Zeitgeist idea and innovative technology of garment production. The results also show that not only Haute Couture but also mass production fashion industry is strongly influenced by the conceptual tendency.

Thesis: “Conceptual Fashion”. Collection: “Subbotnik”. G.P.A. 1,0.